beer ASK WHEEBZ

The idea is to reduce as much pressure as possible to promote ester and phenol production
 
that is why all the hefe breweries in germany use short, super wide, open fermentation and top crop their yeast as opposed to pulling it from a conical
 
downside to this is production scale
 
you can fit twice as many fermenters in a space that are taller as opposed to wider
 
also, if you aren't really doing beers that are pro-ester production, such as IPA's and pale ales, it doesnt really matter
 
other thing to worry about with a super tall fermenter is CO2 scrubbing of esters
 
as the CO2 bubbles up, it brings aromatic compounds with it
 
the less distance to travel up, the less distance to carry things away with it
 
Now that makes perfect sense, cool. Thanks.

SS steam-table pan ideas are probably workable for homebrewer scale ...

Usually have nicely fitted lids, too ...
 
i got some tasty jam in the mail today, and i turned around and ordered some liquid and powdered pectinase to come later this week ...
 
having never seen what the concentrate sold at a LHBS is, i'm at a loss how it compares to jam ...
 
i see it's more common to use fruit stuff in secondary once there's alcohol and the pH is more resistance to what could come w/ adding jam ...
 
i saw some notes about pasteurizing the jam by heating it to 145F for 30 minutes or something like that, which would be easy for me - since I can sous vide it ...
 
is the idea to mix the jam w/ pectinase to extract the fruit juices while it pasteurizes and then put it in the bottom of the secondary and rack on top of it? ...
 
maybe using a keg for secondary and try to fill the headspace w/ CO2 from the beer gun? ...
 
i was thinking about putting the (shallower) zest of a sunkist orange in at flame out, and then racking onto some strawberry jam later on, for what was supposed to be the jalapeno saison ...
 
am i on the right track, or ? ...
 
ive never used jam, i have always used fresh fruit or asceptic fruit puree
 
you can pasteurize it sure, just boil it in water to make a liquid solution and dump it in once it has cooled down
 
as far as pectic enzymes, you really dont have to worry about it
 
only time ive ever used it is when I am adding fresh juice, like apple cider, grape, or pear juice, and usually I add those like the day before to the actual juice, let it settle overnight, and then ferment it with the beer
 
Picked up a fresh coconut the other day at Publix, the little ones have never had the experience of opening one and tasting fresh coconut water or coconut. That got me to thinking and that led to this. :)
 
 
Coconut Porter
 
Grains
12 lbs 2 Row or Marris Otter
13 oz Crystal Malt 40
9 oz Chocolate Malt
3 oz Black Patent
 
Hops
2.5 Willamette Pellets      4.3 AA     60 Min
.5 Kent Goldings Pellets  4.2 AA     15 min
 
Yeast
WLP007 English Dry
 
Other
3 Lbs. Toasted Unsulfured Coconut
            Put coconut into a hops bag and add to secondary for 7 days. Bag will need to be weighted down as coconut floats.
 
Im thinking that if this comes out as a more malty, touch sweeter Porter it would be really awesome.
 
wheebz said:
thats exactly what you should do
Click to expand...
 
so funny, i woke up and saw this and thought it was the response to the jam/pectinase ...
 
guess not, lol ...
 
 
 
 
RM - loved doing the coconuts as a kid. we used to get out the screwdriver and mallet in my friends garage and drink the milk and eat the fruit ...
 
wheebz said:
thats exactly what you should do
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, I think it'll be a good brew :cool:
 
 
grantmichaels said:
 
so funny, i woke up and saw this and thought it was the response to the jam/pectinase ...
 
guess not, lol ...
 
 
 
 
RM - loved doing the coconuts as a kid. we used to get out the screwdriver and mallet in my friends garage and drink the milk and eat the fruit ...
Click to expand...
 
Me too but I have an Axe now to take care of hacking it apart and if I get to Pi$$ed at it I have the 
NOW FOR THE BIG QUESTION!!
 
WHERE CAN I FIND WATER ANALYSIS INFORMATION FOR FLORIDA!!!!!!
 
I want to know what I need to add to the water here to make a good Porter or Stout. I know we are classified as having hard water but I cant find any info that will tell me the ppm for those important elements like calcium, etc...
 
What did you do when you were in Sarasota?
 
Edit: called my Pool Store and found out that out of the tap, our water runs:
Ph: 7.6 to 7.8
Chlorine: .5
 
Now I just have to find out the hardness information.
 
bought the kit from Ward Laboratories and shipped them a sample of water for like 30 bucks
 
they have a Brewers Test kit where they send you a plastic vial, you fill it, and in like a week or two, you get your results
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
On starter's ... which are often mentioned as being in fine pitching condition at 48 hrs ...
 
How fast do they decline day by day thereafter? ... and if you get delayed, is there a canned move to maintain them - add nutes or ? ...
 
Thanks.
 
Well, after a couple of we searches I found some good data at the USGS website which gave me this for east central Florida:

701029FA-CA29-4739-9ECA-B0BDC8B0FCEE_zps009mzq2n.jpg


Then I located these Maps through the Water District that covers Brevard County.

[
3E70AABE-D00E-4837-83BB-D9D97DFDEBDA_zpsix6gxruf.jpg


As well as for sodium, magnesium and Ph. So it looks like our water here is:

Ph 7.2
Cal 170 mg/L
Magnesium 88 mg/L
Sodium 480 mg/L
 
sodium isnt as much as a factor as sulfite, calcium, pH, magnesium, alkalinity, and chloride
 
but by looking at those numbers, you are absolutely f**ked
 
I have never seen a chloride number that high in my life, I mean thats just, wow, my chloride here is less than 1.0, down in Delaware it was around 65
 
I mean that is literally 10x the amount you would ever want in any beer ever
 
your pH is low, your alkalinity is the only thing reasonable, your calcium is 80-90ppm too high, your sulfite is great is you are doing all IPA's and Pale Ales all the time, and your magnesium is really high as well

i mean even your dissolved solids are like, wow
 
wheebz said:
as far as pectic enzymes, you really dont have to worry about it
 
only time ive ever used it is when I am adding fresh juice, like apple cider, grape, or pear juice, and usually I add those like the day before to the actual juice, let it settle overnight, and then ferment it with the beer
Click to expand...
That makes sense, only time I have used pectic enzymes is on crushed apples I'm using for cider, stir it through the crushed apples and leave it for 6 hours before pressing.
 
wheebz said:
sodium isnt as much as a factor as sulfite, calcium, pH, magnesium, alkalinity, and chloride
 
but by looking at those numbers, you are absolutely f**ked
 
I have never seen a chloride number that high in my life, I mean thats just, wow, my chloride here is less than 1.0, down in Delaware it was around 65
 
I mean that is literally 10x the amount you would ever want in any beer ever
 
your pH is low, your alkalinity is the only thing reasonable, your calcium is 80-90ppm too high, your sulfite is great is you are doing all IPA's and Pale Ales all the time, and your magnesium is really high as well

i mean even your dissolved solids are like, wow
Click to expand...
 
Welcome to coastal Florida, Ocean side :) I was looking at those numbers again this morning and suddenly thought when was this published, 2002, so they're about 13 years old. Probably are different now but I'm thinking I'll be better off buying bottled Spring water and using it than what comes out of the tap. I mean either that or getting a really good filter to use for my brewing water.
 
get a carbon filter for your tap, run your water though and do one of those Ward Labs tests I showed to Grant
 
its like 27.50 shipped and if you can use your tap water it will save you a shitload in money buying bottled
 
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