beer ASK WHEEBZ

wheebz -

leaf hops:

ger hallertau 1 oz

pellet hops:

HBC 438 experimental 1 oz (x3)
aus galaxy 1 oz
cz saaz 1 oz
ger polaris 1 oz
ger brewer's gold 1 oz
ger northern brewer 1 oz
ger tettnang 1 oz
ger hull melon 1 oz
ger magnum 1 oz (x2)
us fuggle 1 oz (x2)
us northern brewer 1oz
us golding 1 oz (x2)
columbus 2 oz
equinox 1 oz
falconer's flight 7 c's 1 oz
citra 1 oz
galena 1 oz (x2)
amarillo 1 oz
pacific jade 1 oz
sorachi ace 1 oz
zythos 1 oz (x2)
wakatu 1 oz
strisselspalt 1 oz
simcoe 1 oz
hallertau 1 oz
hallertau mittelfruh 1 oz
willamette 2 oz
jarrylo 1 oz
 
wheebz said:
Gotta dump yeast before dry hop. Best way is primary, move to secondary and dry hop, chill secondary, rack into keg from secondary and carb
Always use pellets to dry hop.
Click to expand...
i got an oz ea in pellets Columbus and Citra ...

image.png


i guess i'll rack off tomorrow and toss em in the shark cage until next weekend ...

:cheers:
 
ASK WHEEBZ -

Did it drive you crazy each time I said I didn't like hoppy beers all the while saying how much I liked big stouts? ...

Now that I grok IBU's a little ...

LOL.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1446938106.229733.jpg
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
I searched pretty carefully and haven't found your thoughts on using oak chips ... French vs Hungarian, degree of toastedness, technique etc ...
 
I'm drinking a Founders Backwards Bastard right now, and I can find my Charliewine in it, but this one's sippable for having the barrel/booze qualities, whereas mine was a drain-pour candidate ...
 
I just wanted to get an idea on your feelings about doing barrel-esque flavors on homebrew scale ... before I look into ...
 
:cheers:
 
Small oak spirals. Love them. Toss one in a keg let it sit for a month and your done. A month is probably too much. They work fast. Awesome contact surface. Low aging time. Super cheap. And can work for any beer. The darker the beer the darker the toast. I usually see french vs American oak. French for lighter character beers. American for darker bourbon characteristics.
 
ok, that sounds easy enough ...
 
probably work better at ferm temp, after primary, than at crash temps - right? so i plan for their use correctly in terms of timings and transfers ...
 
thanks.
 
You can do crash Temps but it takes longer. I would say dump yeast add oak but you are transferring so do that and add the oak after transfer.

Or just f$@$ your couch! Wheebz is drunk off of his own beer. I guess I better sensor that.
 
If one wants to BeerGun like four or five beers ... or six, actually.

I guess loading up a keg with some carbonated water to flush between beers would suffice, and then work lightest to darkest, or ? ...

I'll be in perfect shape to fill some bottles to send up in two weeks ... should have a half-dozen beers at that time ...
 
Darwin resigns from Darwin Brewing, lol ...
 
Can't make this shit up ...
 
Beware funding ...
 
So many similarities to software start-up's ... but not in a good way.
 
I've been testing flavor essences that came w/ the NB one by one ...
 
I didn't find anything that the strawberry was good with ...
 
I didn't find anything the grapefruit was good with ...
 
The orange is only good with the wheat beer ... I realize that's classic, but well, it does enhance the wheat beer I have on tap ..
 
Today I opened up the lemon ...
 
It's nice in the saison, enough that I might have to take a crack at incorporating some lemon zest into my upcoming saison batch, now ...
 
There's still juniper berry, nutmeg, coffee, and chocolate that I haven't tried yet, but I thought it was interesting how tightly coupled they've been (1-to-1 pairings) so far ...
 
grantmichaels said:
If one wants to BeerGun like four or five beers ... or six, actually. I guess loading up a keg with some carbonated water to flush between beers would suffice, and then work lightest to darkest, or ? ... I'll be in perfect shape to fill some bottles to send up in two weeks ... should have a half-dozen beers at that time ...
Click to expand...
 
I realize degrees of difficulty/extremeness would extend the iterations, but how many batches will a brewery put through the pilot system before doing a another couple barrel batch, before going full on? ...
 
I'm just curious about how many iterations it USUALLY takes ... a couple, a half-dozen? ...
 
My first reaction was to respond with ".... now" ... but then I realized that I'm not getting surprised by the outcome from the beers for the most part, so I'm going w/ your statement and taking it at face value.
 
So, I'll ask a better - albeit related - question ...
 
TL;DR - Do you think beers are improved by iterations, or better to take a second unrelated crack at it from a new approach if it didn't turn out? ...
 
I think this goes back to what you are saying ... that you know how it's going to come out before you brew it ...
 
The reality of my barleywine was such that I brewed it on a whim, just because I was faced with a choice of going to go stand in line to grab some bottles of JDubs barleywine release, or brew beer that Saturday ...

I didn't do a lot of work on the recipe, research the style, or otherwise ... and it wasn't very good tasting ... and ultimately got drain-poured ...
 
After that brew is when I started to manage pH, and it was between that beer and the next where I started to use the refractometer to track my pre-boil gravity ...
 
I'm planning to re-brew the Darkness Everybody stout, and I'm planning to re-brew JayWow's beer as well ...
 
I'm trying to decide whether to seek a BORIS The Crusher Imperial Oatmeal clone recipe and use the bhut syrup in it, or tame down that crazy recipe I used the first time ...
 
To make it more reasonable I would nix all the Cara's and the maltodextrin and lactose, and do one w/ a reasonable recipe using a more std fare stout base beer w/ oats and rye for body, and step mash starting at like 125F for the BG's, and spent 20 mins for each 7.5F step up to 152.5F over the course of 80-100 mins including transitional time ...
 
Or, I can find a clone recipe for BORIS, and just work in the bhut syrup into it, as that is the beer I had in my mind when I was making that recipe ...
 
Since I don't have a strong feeling either way, I'll go w/ your advice in this regard, I think, and either try hard to make a more fermentable stout recipe than the one I brewed, or try hard to vet and adapt a BORIS clone to my setup etc ...
 
Anyways, just curious ... been on the fence on this one for a week or more already!
 
=)
 
:cheers:
 
Dont remove the c malts from a stout recipe. Malto dexrin is stupid in a stout. Run throught a couple of mash Temps if you want. Hit 144, 150, and 155 and you will be good. 45 min 30 min 30 min.

Why rye in a stout?. I don't really know any that use it. I never have that's for sure.

And stop reading all these clone recipes. None of them are actual clones.

Learn what each ingredient does and write your own.
 
wheebz said:
And stop reading all these clone recipes. None of them are actual clones.
Click to expand...
 
What clone? ... and here I thought it was more of an I-learned-what-each-ingredient-does & USED-EVERY-LAST-ONE-OF-THEM problem ;)
 
I'll just use your grist/ratios and swap the adjuncts for the bhut syrup next time! :cheers:
 
As Grant says,

Ask Wheebz

So I've been mulling over the Saison recipe and a couple questions come to mind.

First, which is the better yeast for a saison, Belgian or French? Also are there flavor notes that they impart or enhance to consider?

Second, about the Step Mash, would this work:

3 gallons strike water to 150 to mash at 144 for 45 minutes.
2 gallons heated to 165 to bring the mash temp up to 154 for 45 minutes.
Fly Sparge at 170 till I have the full boil volume collected.

So far all I've ever done is a single infusion so this will be a learning experience.
 
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