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overwintering Winter-Summer in OZ "Comparison" / Aussie Blabberers

Who will win?

  • A muppet

    Votes: 20 34.5%
  • A muppet

    Votes: 15 25.9%
  • A muppet

    Votes: 23 39.7%

  • Total voters
    58
Once a week as far as i can figure out. I would probly go the 1-20 mix myself and water twice a week tho. :)
Its hard to burn plants with it but can be done.
 
Once a week as far as i can figure out. I would probly go the 1-20 mix myself and water twice a week tho. :)
Its hard to burn plants with it but can be done.
Once a week? Crikey! I'm only watering my plants once a week... if that! I guess, every time I water, I'll do it with worm jizz. :D

Before doing so though, I have to figure out how to remove the Chlorine and Chloramine from my water (I was using aquarium water ager for a bit there but not so sure how safe that actually is). No use in even using the worm jizz otherwise.... what's the point when I'll just be killing the micro-organisms?
 
Gas do you use worm castings as well??
Not at this point in time. I've seriously considered it but unfortunately it's a little bit out of my price range ATM.

I actually get worms coming up into my pots, but I think they're the wrong type.... :(

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Once a week? Crikey! I'm only watering my plants once a week... if that! I guess, every time I water, I'll do it with worm jizz. :D

Before doing so though, I have to figure out how to remove the Chlorine and Chloramine from my water (I was using aquarium water ager for a bit there but not so sure how safe that actually is). No use in even using the worm jizz otherwise.... what's the point when I'll just be killing the micro-organisms?

Put the water into buckets and let it sit for 24 hrs ... easy as that for the chlorine. Chloramine is a little trickier but is fairly easy as well.

Removing chloramine from water

Chloramine can be removed from tap water by treatment with superchlorination (10 ppm or more of free chlorine, such as from a dose of sodium hypochlorite bleach or pool sanitizer) while maintaining a pH of about 7 (such as from a dose of hydrochloric acid). Hypochlorous acid from the free chlorine strips the ammonia from the chloramine, and the ammonia outgasses from the surface of the bulk water. This process takes about 24 hours for normal tap water concentrations of a few ppm of chloramine. Residual free chlorine can then be removed by exposure to bright sunlight for about 4 hours.

and then to cover your bases your best bet would be simply to add microorganisms (ie use gogo juice or something similar) at regular intervals to boost the levels
 
Not at this point in time. I've seriously considered it but unfortunately it's a little bit out of my price range ATM.

I actually get worms coming up into my pots, but I think they're the wrong type.... :(

IMG_4705.jpg


IMG_4701.jpg


I use the Searles 5in1 plus plant food which has the added worm castings and is only 9.95 for a 30 litre (use it at 1 part to 4 of potting/soil mix) so a little goes a long way. I also see that worms down under have it for $20 bucks for a 30litre bag pick up Worms Down Underlove the comment about the kid :rofl:
 
Removing chloramine from water

Chloramine can be removed from tap water by treatment with superchlorination (10 ppm or more of free chlorine, such as from a dose of sodium hypochlorite bleach or pool sanitizer) while maintaining a pH of about 7 (such as from a dose of hydrochloric acid). Hypochlorous acid from the free chlorine strips the ammonia from the chloramine, and the ammonia outgasses from the surface of the bulk water. This process takes about 24 hours for normal tap water concentrations of a few ppm of chloramine. Residual free chlorine can then be removed by exposure to bright sunlight for about 4 hours.
:shocked:

You lost me after "Chloramine can be removed from tap water by treatment with...." :rofl: (I think I need my morning triple-shot flat white!)

I've heard that Vitamin C in the form Ascorbic Acid works too..... :D
 
:shocked:

You lost me after "Chloramine can be removed from tap water by treatment with...." :rofl: (I think I need my morning triple-shot flat white!)

I've heard that Vitamin C in the form Ascorbic Acid works too..... :D


Yeah seems that 1000mg of Vitamin C is enough for 40 gallons (roughly 160 litres) of water. There is your answer I guess. Buy some ascorbic acid or vtiamin c tabs and drop them in the buckets and let them sit outside for 24 hours and gone be the issues ??
 
I use the Searles 5in1 plus plant food which has the added worm castings and is only 9.95 for a 30 litre (use it at 1 part to 4 of potting/soil mix) so a little goes a long way. I also see that worms down under have it for $20 bucks for a 30litre bag pick up Worms Down Underlove the comment about the kid :rofl:
For some reason I pissed myself laughing when I saw that too. :lol: I wonder how much extra they charge for him? I sure could use a helper kid in the garden..... :think:

I won't touch Searles stuff after I had a bad experience with one of their products. I'm certainly not saying all of their stuff is bad, but when it comes to gardening stuff, one bad experience with one product is all it can take to turn me off a brand.

Yeah, $20 for 30L doesn't sound toooo bad, I guess, but I wonder how much I would use in my mix?

Nova, you should know this... how much castings does Hippy add to his standard mix of 25L potting mix/10L coir batches?
 
This is actually two plants, and I'm still not sure what either of them are, but they are beasts!

IMG_6577.jpg


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I can't believe that only like a month ago I had pruned them right back to just about nothing due to mite damage.

Pods produced by the first plant:

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Pods produced by the second plant:

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Cool gas... is one of those pods the smoking one?? :lol: Does it pay to prune your plants back at all during the growing season to increase new compact growth and create more bud sites?? Or does everyone here just let them keep growing and only prune them back during the early autumn/winter months??
 
Cool gas... is one of those pods the smoking one?? :lol: Does it pay to prune your plants back at all during the growing season to increase new compact growth and create more bud sites?? Or does everyone here just let them keep growing and only prune them back during the early autumn/winter months??
Yeah, one of them is the bad egg. :lol:

And yeah, sorry, Trips, I know just as much as you! ;)

Those two plants just seem to want to grow regardless of what happens to them. I dare say, after the initial autumn pruning I gave 'em, had I not had to prune 'em back twice due to stupid mites, they would be even bigger. Even in between prunes they were growing like the clappers.

It's a shame I actually have them so close to the wall too as they keep loosing branches and foliage due to scraping. Too late to move 'em too as they have well and truly grown out of their pots and into the ground--as you can see in this pic from last season:

IMG_5084.jpg


Maybe the worms I have ARE beneficial to some degree--that ground there is LOADED with 'em.
 
Yeah, one of them is the bad egg. :lol:

And yeah, sorry, Trips, I know just as much as you! ;)

Those two plants just seem to want to grow regardless of what happens to them. I dare say, after the initial autumn pruning I gave 'em, had I not had to prune 'em back twice due to stupid mites, they would be even bigger. Even in between prunes they were growing like the clappers.

It's a shame I actually have them so close to the wall too as they keep loosing branches and foliage due to scraping. Too late to move 'em too as they have well and truly grown out of their pots and into the ground--as you can see in this pic from last season:

IMG_5084.jpg


Maybe the worms I have ARE beneficial to some degree--that ground there is LOADED with 'em.


What size pots are they Gas??
 
Yeah, one of them is the bad egg. :lol:

And yeah, sorry, Trips, I know just as much as you! ;)

Those two plants just seem to want to grow regardless of what happens to them. I dare say, after the initial autumn pruning I gave 'em, had I not had to prune 'em back twice due to stupid mites, they would be even bigger. Even in between prunes they were growing like the clappers.

It's a shame I actually have them so close to the wall too as they keep loosing branches and foliage due to scraping. Too late to move 'em too as they have well and truly grown out of their pots and into the ground--as you can see in this pic from last season:

IMG_5084.jpg


Maybe the worms I have ARE beneficial to some degree--that ground there is LOADED with 'em.


those plants are huge considering the pots they are in!
Like you said, obviously the roots have gone out the bottom and into the ground....but whatever you have in the ground there the plants love!!!
Cant help you on the id of them though....hopefully someone here can.
 
but whatever you have in the ground there the plants love!!!
It's actually an ex-veggie patch at my mum's place but I don't recall a time in my life when ferts or other soil additives have ever been added. I used to grow other stuff--mainly tomatoes and pumpkins--in there when I was a kid and they always went off too. It's funny though 'cause the soil is actually quite clayey. Just magic dirt, I guess!

Cant help you on the id of them though....hopefully someone here can.
They're both supposed to be Wasps but only my first plant is producing yellow pods and they look fatter than Judy's Wasps.

I'm actually wondering if Judy's Wasps are really CAP 1035 or perhaps a hybrid with CAP 1035 as a parent....

Wasp-CAP1035-Comparison-1.jpg


Wasp-CAP1035-Comparison2.jpg


In which case I'm wondering if a colour mutation *might* be possible? But yeah, I know a result of hybridization is probably more likely....

MysteryYellow-CAP1035-Comparison.jpg


Of course, a mutation doesn't explain the second plant which produces pods that are much different to both Wasp and CAP 1035 and that ripen to orange and then turn half white....

OrangeYellow.jpg


IMG_4773.jpg


The closest match I have found to them is: Hurrikan. Only Hurrikan is smoother and rounder.

So then I start thinking hybrid again... Inadvertent hybrid? Unstable hybrid?

I dunno, I'm really too inexperienced to be trying to work this one out! :lol:

Nonetheless, I'm growing both CAP 1035 types this season for comparison and will see what happens.....
 
20cm. Great way to save on both costs and space, aye? :D
I hadn't had luck with many Capsicum Chinense varieties in 20 cm pots except for Maraba Yellow and Peruvian White (2 cm long max. jelly bean shaped strain). I'm hoping there's time for the transplant of a couple of Trinidad Scorpion plants, a Habanero plant and Seven Pot plant into 25 cm (8.5 L) pots to result in larger pods.

This season's exception is the Fatalii plant that has produced a few decent sized pods. I transplanted it into a 25 cm pot as well to avoid future undersized pods.

Have the tall plants pictured grown roots through the holes at the bottom into the garden bed?
 
Megamoo I was wondering if the size of your plants compared to the size of the bucket is an issue? I plan to go from a seedling tray, to a 10cm pot, then a 30cm pot. I can't talk from my own experience but I did read about it Silver Surfer 's grow list/log.
Might be, I lost so many plants before I worked out that drainage and pot sizing is important. I'd never heard of perlite in soil before june this year, most of my plants died over winter in the rain. IE plants in large soaking wet pots with no roots every winter.
A lot of my seedlings died in july even though I learnt these things too.
I've got a lot of seedlings in 50mm pots I'm not potting up yet, and even though I have these buckets, there's a lot in 100mm seedling pots that are not getting potted up yet.
I only change pots when they're already distressed (bad mix etc) or when the roots are at the bottom of that pot. All the ones I moved to buckets had the root already at the bottom of the 100mm seedling pot and were on the verge of being root bound.
 
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